Hey, it's International Surfing Day today so get out your log or your lid and go surf! I've been surfing for three hours a day for the last couple of days and feeling damn fine about it so I highly suggest you git in there too. Today my friend Beck and I awoke and arrived at good ol' El Porto at about 6:30 in the am. We walked up the coast for a half mile or so and proceeded to score super fun waist and chest high waves off the jetty out in front of the Chevron smokestacks. Strange backdrop but the waves were fantastic. We more or less had the place to ourselves and just rode longboards and had a blast and by the time we left at 8:45 in the am the weekend crowds were starting to show up. I love surfing early in the morning and bailing just as most everyone else is just waking up. I think it is now yoga time and then I'm off to purchase some Pete's Louisiana Hot Sausage and I'm going for grits and links and eggs as I've definitely earned the calories. I've been living on yerba mate for breakfast so by the time I'm done surfing it's time for some serious eating. Go for fat bastard!
Peace out, bitches!
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4 comments:
i think you should be sending me some flash frozen via fedex asap! barring that, you should be feeding your family! no, forget them, send me some petes!!!
(please)
I'll get on that as soon as I get paid. Ask Bean. She's about to be a rich Hollywood type.
i forgot about that... *dialing now*
Yeah she's rich alright, rich with debt. Get in line with Sallie Mae and the IRS.
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