I just surfed my ass off! It's bigger than the great outdoors here in SoCal and I woke up at 4:30am and didn't really stop until I went to Bean's at noon to make chilliquilles for Moose and his party guests. Dammit! I surfed Emma Woods up in Ventura County first and then after an hour I rolled down to Topanga with some friends and not only did battle with half the surfers in SoCal but also scored a couple of barrels. That's right, fucking stand up barrels just outside of LA. Fucking hell, I'm beat and happy and I'm going to get myself a pizza. I going to bed early again and getting up and doing it all over again tomorrow.
So now that I've calmed down I'll say this: Moose had a really funny birthday party. Here's the menu: coffee, donuts, chilliquilles, and Spanish tortilla. What the fuck? Then we walked to the beach and watched some horrific closeouts slam into the beach. Mariano showed up and we all chilled and now that Ghost and the Darkness are home all we can think about is sleeping. On that note, good day sir!
Peace out, bitches!
2 comments:
yikes, saw the news this morning about monster (and dangerous) waves in cali...don't make me call you! ;~D
I'll be fine. I hurt my foot yesterday so today is rest day as next Thursday through Sunday I will be hiking my ass off in the woods. Surf must wait til Monday.
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